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<p style=”text-align: left;”>Good evening Peter. Try firstname.lastname@example.org I assumed that darall spelt with an A, was a printing error in the year book I took the email address from. Best wishes. Dave.</p>
Darell Allard was the last owner of that P1 to use it on the road. You have purchased an excellent car that I have been with on many Allard Owners Club runs covering many miles. I feel sure he is the best person to answer your questions. His email address is, email@example.com.
Side on view. I am pleased with the finished look. The door gaps are good. I hope the roof gap is as good.
Last picture. Just the little capping piece of aluminium to fit, and then for the roof section. Getting there.
Working up you can see all the inner aluminium is in place except the door latch plate. I only have one chance to get this exactly right as where it is screwed into the A post wood determines how tightly the door shuts. I haven’t worked out if there is an adjustment mechanism, or if there is how it may work. I am open to suggestions.
On the above photo you can see the aluminium is wrapped around the wooden frame and tacked into place. I used plenty of Tiger Seal glue/sealer to ensure a waterproof finish. Correction. This caption should read photo below.
On the above photo you can see the aluminium is wrapped around the wooden frame and tacked into place. I used plenty of Tiger Seal glue/sealer to ensure a waterproof finish
Russell, I have just come in from my workshop having been working 0on my P1 drivers side A post. Judging from the age of your car, unless the A posts have been replaced I would certainly want to check them out. Does the door lock catch work loose? On my car that was the first sign of trouble. If you unscrew one of the screws holding the catch in place will give you an idea of what is in there. Lower down on the A post there is a little locator bracket that should mate up with a half moon shaped piece of rubber. This helps locate and hold the door in position. If this is loose, or it may have been fibreglass into position, there is another clue to rotten wood. Gaining access to the A post is not as difficult as you might think, if youare brave. The aluminium shell is bent around the wooden frame and pinned into place. If you can’t see the pins, or the edge of the aluminium, the I suspect it has been filled with body filler to get the shape and finis required. I shall use filler on mine before painting. You can probe this with a sharp screwdriver or similar. If this is the case in order to access the A post, you will need to remove all of it. Once done the aluminium edge should now show. If the wood is rotten removing the pins is relatively easy. If the wood is good relax and go for a pint. Just remove a small section of filler to check. If you need to replace the wood, then uncover the whole door edge, remove any filler and get out as many of the pins as possible. Next, using a sharp screw driver or an old wood chisel, get the blade underneath the edge of the aluminium and gently pry it away fro the timber frame. I have done this twice now on my car, and the aluminium is still OK. I just pry it away little by litte working my way along the frame. Once I can get a pair of pliers underneath the edge I use pliers, but only bend the aluminium a bit each time. Hopefully your aluminium will be as forgiving as mine has been. A warm atmosphere would be an advantage. I have photos and descriptions of my work oon my P1 in this technical section of this forum. This afternoon I have just refitted and tacked into place my aluminium. If you wish you can ring me any time. 07850 655132. I will ring you back if I can’t take the call because I am driving. Some of the lorries Don’t have hands free facilities. Dave.
Russell. I will give you a full reply on Sunday. I have owned a P1 since 1973. It underwent a full restoration between then and 1996. I have used it since then and done over 60000 miles in it. I was forced to stop using it in 2015 because the A post had become rotten again. There are photos on our forum. As I say I will send you a full run down on Sunday. I am working tomorrow.
The gap between the wing side wall doesn’t look too excessive to me, but I would need to see it directly from 90 degrees to the wheel to make a judgement. Possibly fitting an inner mud guard just behind the wheel as per my P1 would make it look better.
Ben, I wonder if Allards changed the design during the P1 manufacturing run. The ex Peter Love, Tim Baker car is one of the first P1 made. Mine also has a ledge similar to the earlier car. Mine is also quite an early P1. 1950 registered. Maybe later P1 cars were altered and ended up like yours. If the wing fits well and seems firmly fixed on your car when bolted up I would go with the flow and use what you have got. Darell’s ex P1 was no trouble and looked good. From your photo your wing looked to fit well with good symmetrical wheel clearance. If the other side works as well you are home and dry.