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Any tips on removing the rear hub to get at the brake shoes? Got the wheel off (very hard to turn so shoes possibly stuck on?) but can’t get the hub off and reluctant to be too enthusiastic with the old Birmingham Screwdriver, I’m used to old Land Rovers where brute force is generally always the answer! Is there any kind of hub puller tool around I should be using?
Alternatively wondering if there’s adjustment to back off the shoes a bit?
Any tips?
Sorry for daft questions….
In the front and rear brake drum faces you should see 2 holes about 12mm/1/2″ dia.
Rotate the drum until, through that hole, you see a slotted mushroom screw head which operates the Micram “snail” adjuster for the brakes. You might need a torch.
With a large screwdriver rotate the screw anti-clockwise to slacken the shoes off.
Phase 1 front brakes have 1 adjuster and rears a different setup with a bisector arrangement and a notched disc that is accessed through the hole and rotated horizontally to adjust. These bisectors can be notoriously troublesome and anyone who has problems with them may contact me or Mike and we will try to help.
Phase 2 front brakes (as on the P1) have two adjusters and the rears 1 adjuster as first described above.
DO NOT try to release the drums by hammering the drum edges, they are brittle cast iron and will break. Use a gear puller but first of all remove the hub grease cap and centre the gear puller on the end of the hub spindle taking care not to damage the spindle.
There’s the problem though, I can’t rotate the drum – not even with the wheel on. It took 3 of us to push it very reluctantly down quite a steep driveway. I wonder whether the shoes have maybe even worn a groove so there might be a lip. I’m going to jack the car up higher on the axle stands tomorrow and get right under there so I can see what’s going on behind there. I do know that the brake nipples are so rusty I doubt very much they’ll ever undo so I could have quite a job on my hands. Already squirted them with WD40.
Not sure of the best way to get the drum off. But try soaking the brake nipples ( or any hard to turn nut ) over night with old fashioned Penetrating oil and then use plenty of heat.
Try a gear/hub puller and if that doesn’t work you could try removing the whole brake drum and back plate assembly after which you could soak it all in a bath of diesel which is quite good at loosening things.
I presume you have removed the 2 countersunk screws holding the drum to the hub ?
Right… One hub off ,back on and now spinning freely (ish).
Other rear hub screws removed, adjustment screw loosened and spins with resistance but won’t come off. I’ve sprayed wd40 on the join between drum and axle as that looks like it may have rusted so will try again tomorrow.
If I do need one… What type of hub puller would I need?
Ben you need a Ford flathead V8 puller that has a lip at the end which fits in the grooves in the hub. At the outer end of the puller is a large bolt which has to be tightened against the end of the half-haft having first loosened the nut on the end of the shaft and undoing it so it protects the end of the threads. Then sharply strike the end of the bolt with a 4lb club hammer. In between blows make sure the bolt is tight. It is shock that removes the hub, pulling will not do it.
Thanks Mike, I actually made myself a puller, but all I had was 18mm plywood. I’ll try tensioning that up again and giving it a tap to see if that’s enough to shock it. It might be that they come off now, they’ve had penetrating oil on them for over a week now.
If that doesn’t work I’ll get myself a proper puller.
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